Sending you a few quick postcards because the AirBnB we are staying in here in Palermo is currently without WiFi. Our landlord is very apologetic but apparently is changing service providers and we are caught in the gap. Tuesday, he assured us when we arrived on Saturday. It’s Thursday morning as I write…There have been protestations made; we try to be patient and ate very glad to have ample data in our (expensive! ) cell phone travel plans. But that won’t do for my little MacBook. (Someday, yes, I should figure out how to use my phone as a « hotspot. » I will need to research this, security concerns, safeguards, etc. once we’re back home.)
So I’m trying something new and blogging from my phone. On that tiny keyboard. Much easier to Instagram from a phone than to blog from one. Hence the quick postcards… (and my apologies for not responding to your comments, each of which I’ve read and enjoyed ver much—thank you!
Aren’t these little enamelled espresso cups charming? The young woman who brought them to us pointed out how well they matched my dress. She said it in Italian because I’d used mine as I ordered. Moments like this repay the countless hours of learning the language. It truly opens doors.
Sicilian cassata, the dolce we shared at the end of a recent restaurant meal. Sharing is the best approach for many of the desserts here…quite sweet and quite rich…
This is such a busy city, and to be honest, walking into it from the station last Saturday afternoon, I found it chaotic and overwhelming. But I’m feeling increasingly comfortable as we walk through all this energy (Sunday’s walk through the Ballarò market—whew!). . . And then occasionally, amidst all the noise and movement and crowds and density of architecture and scooters and bikes and cars…I’ll turn my head and through a doorway opening onto the street, I’ll glimpse another side of Palermitan life.
Finally, I’ll pop this in the mailbox for those of you who might be wondering if I’ve got back to sketching after having had my little sketchbook stolen last month…
And that’s it for now. Crossing my fingers that this will reach you. I’ll look forward to any comments you might make but will probably continue to have trouble answering them until we have Wifi again.
Ciao,
Frances
Some amazing trees in Palermo. The most sinister but amazing ones were in Giardino Garibaldi, Ficus Benjamin., where executions were carried out in the Spanish Inquisition. Do go to Monreale if you can find the time – there’s a bus. Elizabeth
Being without WiFi is a nuisance . It’s sometimes a problem for us on holiday in the wilds of Scotland but you seem to be coping with what you have . We never used to feel cut off from the world before the internet was invented did we 😄 I remember Sicilian cities being a little crazy , it was scooters in those days whizzing everywhere like ‘ vespas ‘ – all good fun though
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It’s true — such a nuisance to be without it now, but also yes, we managed just fine without it not so long ago. So much now that can’t be accessed without it.
Scooters of both kinds now — the Vespas but also the ones with the board to stand on and the long handle for steering. Bikes as well, and many of them electric and heavy and would do serious damage if they clipped you. Kids on the Vespas are a concern as well — two boys, often, anywhere from 12 to 16 by appearance. . . safety is not their first concern;-)
Looks and sounds like a wonderful trip, Frances. That courtyard view makes my heart sing. xo
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It’s been good, despite the glitches — and me too on the courtyard.
Another Elizabeth chiming in to suggest the bus ride up to Monreale, where the Cathedral mosaics are simply stunning. It’s an easy and not too long trip in my memory from a few years ago. I’m loving your commentary & photos from Sicily, where we’ll return in late September for two weeks as part of a six week Italian meander. I’m studying Italian too- such a beautiful language! Thanks for sharing your adventures with us.
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The mosaics are exactly that — stunning! And it was an easy enough trip — short, thank goodness, as the bus was crowded (everyone here is very good about mask-wearing).
Six weeks meandering here — lovely! It makes such a difference to be able to chat a bit in Italian — I’ve seen people’s demeanour change noticeably.
This trip is certainly having it’s challenging moments. that does not stop you from having many wonderful experiences. . I always enjoy my vicarious travels reading your blog.
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Thanks for letting me know the posts are enjoyed. As for the challenges, yes, they’re happening, but I try to remember how privileged we still are and there’s still so much to experience. (Don’t always manage the positive attitude but I try 😉
We’ve been lucky enough to travel to Sicily 3 times and twice stayed in the lovely little resort town of Castellamare del Golfo. In the off season but a great location from which to explore western Sicily and restaurants were still open for that delicious seafood. We hired a driver for a day to take us to Solunto, Monreale and and Cefalu. We do rent a car but to be able to visit all 3 in one day and spend the time we wanted wouldn’t have been possible. Well worth the expense. Will you have the opportunity to visit Mozzia? So enjoying your trip vicariously.
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You’ve been lucky indeed! And the driver and the rented car would make it easier to see more places. For this trip, we’re enjoying the slower pace of train and foot and, yesterday, the regular transit bus out to Monreale. No Mozzia (nor, sadly, Cefalu — but there will be future trips, I hope)
Glad you managed Monreale and Giardino Garibaldi. Vale la deviazione! Elizabeth
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Assolutamente! — Grazie per aver insistito
I love the pictures of Palermo you are posting – and also the reporting. Visiting Sicily always feels adventurous to me. That isn’t true about the rest of Sicily.
I think of all your trips, this one to Sicily is my favorite. Your sketch intensifies my feelings.