Framework or Plan? We were tossing this distinction around with our ex-pats the other day. The discussion had to do with whether some of our party could be too energetic in their planning and too determined to execute a plan in its entirety. And in response came this notion of a framework rather than a plan. A general idea of what a traveller wants to see or do in their limited time in a new place rather than an itinerary that must be adhered to precisely by day and hour. At some point, it became clear that even the term “framework” was more ambitious than our general approach; we might have tossed the words “Slow Travel” into the room, hoping they might have some cachet. The younger generation’s facial expressions didn’t convince me that this is so. . .
Being younger than us, I suspect they’re often bemused by our, shall we say, relaxed approach to our time in a place we’ve travelled so far to get to (see examples of the role Serendipity plays in our travel planning here and here). . . while we’re regularly awed by what they can fit into a four-day getaway to one of those fabulous two-hour-flight-away destinations available to them from Rome. We always enjoy our weekend outings with them, driving an hour or so into the Lazio countryside for a good long walk that balances our urban ambling and broadens our view (literally, as you saw in my earlier post).
But then we’re back on our own, and we set off from our hotel on Saturday morning, and we decide together that maybe we’ll head to Trastevere . . .Probably stop for a coffee along the way, check out a few churches (I’m still looking for angels to sketch), and find a terrace restaurant for lunch — also, Paul wants to check out the sandwiches at a place he’s read about (with the unlikely name of Donkey Punch). A very rough framework for the day, then. Not precise enough to qualify as a plan. And no urgency at all, except that I’d like to be back in our room for a nap by late afternoon.
When we were almost their age and had four kids, 5 to 14, we did a house exchange with a family in Blois. One day we drove from that home in the Loire valley all the way up to Honfleur for the day, and back to sleep in Blois that night. All because I had Honfleur on my list from the pre-trip planning I’d done. All the castles we visited in neighbouring towns. . . The overnight trip down to Marseilles. . . Made sure the 8-year-old got to dance Sur le Pont, D’Avignon. . .
So perhaps we’ve earned the luxury of ambling days. Starting out from the hotel, dressed for a day with temperatures hovering around room temperature, cooler in shadow, warm in the sunshine. . .
The view as we meandered down the Aventine Hill. . .
Fragrant white roses, old stone walls, blue skies. . . simple pleasures our shoes can take us to . . .
and we crossed the Tiber to Trastevere (the neighbourhood whose name translates to “Across the Tiber”). . .
So much of what I’m here for can be seen in this wall, that arch, the patterned textures of shutters and cobblestones and brickwork, all those rich neutrals . . .
All the variations on orange — more saturated, above, softer, peachier below. . . and accompanied by orange-tinged golden roses sprawling underneath an arched window. . .
A contributing element to our slow-travel approach is that I’m attentive to smaller details that catch my eye, such as noticing the name of an Italian singer-songwriter I’d been introduced to in one of my Italian classes.
He lived here . . . The plaque says so, and quotes from one of his songs, La Sera dei Miracoli. My rough translation: “It’s the night of miracles. Pay attention. Someone in the alleys of Rome has written a song.”
I learned about him through another song, Attenti al lupo! If I were writing this at home, I’d do a bit more research and tell you more about Dallo and his music, but this is not the case, so . . .
So many of my camera stops have to do with the ineffable. That which I will not try to capture with words, so a photo will have to do, although I know well my camera skills are unlikely to convey what I see. So be it. . . Perhaps you might recognize something here. Hint: It’s mostly about the light, but there’s also synergy and exaltation and the fleeting beauty of life. . .
I snapped a photo of this angel after I’d sat and sketched it. . . in the sunshine with a fountain burbling behind me. The first angel in my “replacement” sketch book, and forse I will show it to you later. . .
I sketched this one a bit later, in a different Big Beautiful Church. We got to three on Saturday morning. . .
Same Big Beautiful Church, more angels. . .
But we also look down, in churches and elsewhere. And perhaps there’s an angel in that patch of light, filtered through stained glass before it lands on a marble mosaic floor so stunning that Paul began fantasizing about how he might replace the grey, slate-look, ceramic tiles that we step on every day back home. . . (I pointed out that living with our current floors allowed us the wherewithal to visit inspiring ones; my view will prevail š
Honestly, you can’t plan for visiting this kind of scene, but it’s part of my own little mosaic. Not a marble floor, but a kaleidoscope of images that form my sense of a place . . .
And by now you know that I’m always collecting street art . . . this one by an erstwhile street artist who seems now to paint beautifully cool hand-painted high-top sneakers!
So that was Rome, last Saturday, or at least some photos from the slice of it that we wandered through . . . We’re now in Siracusa, Sicily, for a few days, and my rough framework doesn’t include too much time on my laptop, and just beyond my hotel window, the Gulf of Syracusa, the Ionian Sea. . . Until I write here again, feel free to follow my wanderings on Instagram where I post more often. . .
Before I go, big, big thanks to Blog Reader Melissa who came up to introduce herself to me in Testaccio earlier this week. Besides the fact that it was lovely to meet you, to see your gorgeous coat, and to be inspired by your new bag, bought in Rome I believe, it was also great to have my husband convinced that I must be a blogging rockstar. Imagine, being recognized in Rome. In fact, Melissa recognized my husband first, from that photo you see on the top of this post of him on the Aventine Hill; I’d posted it earlier on Instagram. But details, details š He thinks I’m a blogging rockstar and I don’t need to dispel illusions, do I?
You don’t need to believe I’m a rockstar to leave a comment, though. Should you wish to, I’m always happy to read them, although I’m not answering them as quickly or faithfully as I normally try to do. But I’d love to know whether you’re a planner or someone who takes a more casual approach to travel. Do you have a framework of sights and activities you’d like to tick off, if possible, and are you willing to abandon some of them for an interesting detour or a relaxing day close to your hotel room? Or do you know that you will regret missing anything you’ve inscribed on your Must See list? How do you roll when you’re in Rome (or any other Elsewhere)?
Ciao for now,
xo,
f
Framework,even more casual than that…I’ve earned it,too,rushing to see everything long ago
Now,I sometimes only smell the roses…
Beautiful photos!
And Lucio Dalla……!
Dottoressa
Lovely photos Frances . I especially like the little cobbled streets & you seem to have them all to yourself . Slow travel is good . When I look back over the years to our travelling it isnāt the dashing from monument to museum I remember , itās the quiet times . Itās sitting up high with a beautiful view or walking along old tracks or enjoying lunch watching the locals in sleepy squares .
PS We already knew you were a blogging rockstar š
we roll much as you and Paul do, allowing us to ramble and explore, but always having a general idea of where we can stop for a good coffee or nice lunch or gelato artiginale. on our very first trip to Europe, Paris for a long weekend, we learned that (a) contrary to popular opinion you CAN get a bad meal in Paris, and (b) looking around blindly for someplace to have lunch or dinner when you are tired and cranky is the pits. we also follow a similar schedule: out early in the morning, always back for an afternoon nap, and then out again for a stroll and maybe a bit of shopping on the way to an 8:00 dinner. what we haven’t figured out is how to work in aperitivo and not ruin our appetites for dinner
We have historically been in the āpack in as much as we can, as we may never get back hereā camp. Our first trip to Paris 21 years ago, we jumped out of bed early each day, packed in as much as we could and then fell into bed exhausted at the end of the day! Weāre making our 4th trip to France in late summerātaking a river cruise in the south of France, which will be partially structured, but with half days to wander at each stop. We end with 3 days in Paris and are just planning to wander, as you and Paul do. Weāll have a couple of āwould like to seeā places, but will wander and meander for those few daysā¦
Fabulous photos! There is time for rushing, and a time to savour every small experience. Our ways is usually the slow way. The minutia of everyday life around us. Those are the experiences that we remember.
Hoping to return to France this year, but we will see. Still have not returned to Vancouver since 2020, sadly. Baby steps….
Ali
Slow Travel definitely appeals to me as it now makes the whole trip/event more doable without being exhausting thus less pleasurable in the long run. Your trip sounds lovely. I enjoy following your time as you use descriptions, photos and sketches. Safe travels!
We are very casual travelers– tend to have a few things we’d like to see and let our exploring walks take us places we couldn’t have imagined. The first time my now son in law travelled with us he was amazed I didn’t make him get up at the crack of dawn with a list of places we had to see- his mother was one of those!! Consensus was our way was much more enjoyable!
I find it easy to be a more relaxed traveler now that we are retired and can take longer holidays. When you are working and can only can take a 2 week holiday, it’s a lot harder to be relaxed. Age may also play a larger part in how we structure our holidays. I am happier to smell the roses now than I was when I was younger!
Most of my traveling has been done in recent years, and was the let’s see as much as we can sort. The river cruises on smaller ships do allow for more relaxing times, and there is not the packing and unpacking of the land tours. I have no current plans for travel, at least not abroad. I a trying to see my part of the world as a tourist would, take time to notice the things I might have overlooked because of familiarity. In fact, yesterday I joined an excursion to a well known cemetery, Woodlawn, in the Bronx section of New York City. For years I have passed it as I traveled by train into Manhattan. Many famous people are buried there, and there are magnificent memorials, beautiful landscaping, rare trees . The guide provided us with glimpses into the lives of several of those who chose this as their final resting place. It was quite moving.
Do you remember the name of the church that had the circular mosaic on the floor that has a Serpentine effect? We stumbled across it on our own ramblings in Trastevere and I lost the scrap of paper I wrote it down on. I wanted to do some research! Your musings are lovely
Brilliant. You are travelers, not tourists. I admire your approach, and take pleasure in your days. D
I love your photos! They give such a feeling of place, if that makes sense.
Planning is half the fun of travel for me, but I tend to fall into the Framework category. I plan the details of how to get where we’re going and where to stay (except about a decade ago when we wandered southeast Asia with very little plan and few reservations made in advance) and I usually have a list of things we’d like to see and do. Sometimes it’s the unplanned things that are most memorable though.
As for angels in Rome, there’s a statue of the Archangel Michael inside Castel Sant’Angelo and another one on top that I absolutely love. I visualize angels as powerful beings, not the airy fairy sort that we so often see depicted, which is why I like those two so much.
The colours, the light, the fleeting beauty! Thank you so much for the beautiful photosā¦and your prose. I love hearing about your travels.
We like a balance when we travel. Thereās definitely some of the āoh, weād love to see blah while weāre hereā mixed with a much looser framework of spontaneity and go with the flow vibe. Canāt wait to hear about your sketching time! Thank you
Framework, I think. I sometimes have an idea of places to see or things I would like to do eg. Colosseum, Forum, Pantheon, and the like, but when and how I tend to leave to fate. Very very much in favour of mooching, strolling, stopping for coffee or a beer, thinking about lunch. I dislike feeling that I have a timetable when I am holiday, as it seems to defeat the object. You have made me want to return to Rome for a good deal more of all the above.
I find it interesting that in my youth I travelled slowly, glad I could at last relax for a few weeks after a demanding job. My daughter, who works nonchalantly from home post-Covid, wants nothing to do with relaxation on holiday; sheās looking for a whirlwind of activity and a fast pace. Time does indeed change things.
Hmm. Definitely not Plan, but I think not Framework either. Something less…hanging out. Hanging out in Rome for a bit, yes, I have said that. Some days are a bit more framework but only a bit. I do research and have a list in my head so I recognize things when I stumble on them. But the days lolling around in parks and the afternoons spent lingering on restaurant patios learning the life-love history of another charming waiter are not to be forgotten. (Stay! Please! I find this so funny and charming, what can one do?)
And I don’t take many photos (although I love to see someone else’s!!), so the laid-back method allows some kind of place-memorization.
How lazy I sound. Why would that be I wonder? š
Meander and serendipity are good traveling companionsā-
Lovely way to travel, you rock star!
We are definitely framework travelers. Weāll have a few places or things that we would like to see and take it from there. If there is an open air cafe that we like the look of, we stop and people watch, a beautiful cathedral we go in, an interesting street or shops, we browse and almost always, a short nap to refresh and catch up in my travel journal of the dayās sights. I love street art too and your photo of the mural inspires me to group my street art photos together.
Your photos! They draw me in and I can almost feel the sun on my face as I glance up to see the peach paint on the walls and the colorful shutters.
My husband and I alternate between the two travel approaches. We usually cover a lot of territory, but we also have days in which we linger over breakfast, picnic next to a river, wander alleys and take photos. We tend to book our hotels for a couple days after arrival in a country and a day or two before we depart. While this sometimes has its drawbacks – late day searching for a place to stay while cranky, hungry and tired, it also allows us to change plans, staying longer in a place that we love or heading to a destination that someone told us we shouldn’t miss.