I was last in Paris on my own in early December 2019 — a trip disrupted considerably by a national strike. . . and then followed by the Covid pandemic. I did a patch of solo travel in 2022, but that only involved leaving Paul in Palermo (he walked me to the train and picked me up) while I took a train to a small town where I was picked up at the station and joined a group of sketchers for a week, all of us comfortably housed and abundantly fed.
That week followed closely on the heels of my purse being stolen in Rome, so that I had to replace my passport and had to rely on Paul to supply me with cash since my credit cards were all in my stolen bag.
Then there was the ankle I sprained on our first attempt (this past spring) at the Via Francigena.
Sheesh! A girl starts to feel a bit vulnerable. . . And a 70-year-old, Well!!
I gave you an idea of my amped-up travel worries in my last post. Coming to Paris, though, has for many years felt like a kind of homecoming to me, and I hoped that sense had survived. And it has, despite my hotel being in the 11th, an arrondissement I’ve never stayed in before. Something else I’ve never done before in Paris is have all my days booked, as I’m doing right now with a Paris Sketchbook workshop.
I’d tell you more about how and why I’ve felt at home here, felt an emergence of a self who belongs in Paris, but oh, this workshop is keeping me busy — in a good way, but there’s no time to blog. I began composing a post on Monday, the day after I arrived here from Zurich (see my last post for explanation of why I went through Zurich to get to Paris from Italy — not my usual Slow Travel, it’s true!). But the post I had in mind is taking too long to get on the screen, and I frittered away my ration of downtime this afternoon on the luxury of a nap (Not the first time that’s happened, I’ll admit).
And I have to leave momentarily for a sketching meet-up on the Pont des Arts at 5:30. . .
So let me just tell you quickly that on Monday I picked up a Navigo Easy Pass (ten rides on a digital card that can be reloaded) my first full day here. I haven’t been on the Metro since pre-Covid, but it’s as easy to ride as ever, although possibly more crowded (and yes, I chose to wear my mask while standing with at least ten strangers in the six feet we were keeping between any two of us not so long ago).
I’ve walked many kilometres — something I always do in Paris. Of course, I did this walking the Via Francigena last week (really? that was just last week?), but the people-watching is inarguably better in Paris.
And, of course, there are always great exhibitions to check out — I only have time for one this visit; I chose the Rothko. No regrets, a brilliant retrospective and it’s the kind of work that really needs to be seen in person to appreciate its depth, the materiality of the colour. . .
And although I’m more than ready to meals in my own kitchen again, I’m enjoying once again the satisfaction I feel when I find my way into a bustling local bistro, brasserie, or bar, and get snugged into a table surrounded by French conversations. Places where the food is good, the formule de midi is very reasonably priced, and I feel both nurtured and self-reliant, a sweet, sweet combination. . .
A few more photos I’ve taken while walking to and from the atelier where our classes take place or to the various locations where we’ve met for late-afternoon sketching.
It’s 9:08 p.m. on the third day since I uploaded photos for this post. Time to get it out into the world before it gets stuck in “Drafts” forever. . . I’m going to call it a “good enough” effort and send it out as is. Breakfast’s at 8 in the morning, and then I have to be at the atelier (I do like saying that 😉 by 9:15. . . Time for bed . . .
xo,
f
Don’t you enjoy Paris neighbourhoods? You can sit and people watch for hours or stroll purposefully to a class or find a reading, concert or art show within a few blocks. I’m sure that your sketches will be revisited often when you get home.
Waving ~ thanks for sharing your adventures! I love your “nurtured and self reliant”.
I would so love to go back to Paris, but unlikely to happen any time soon. However, today’s very welcome consolation was an architectural tour of the of the nearby city of New Rochelle, in fact settled by the French seeking freedom from religious persecution. So many treasures remain in spite of the glass and steel structures which are taking over a good portion of the city. The day capped by a delicious lunch of grilled fish, salad and special pastries at a Croatian restaurant.
I like the 11th too. Very homey.
Classes are exhausting aren’t they? But so good; not just the learning but the structure of it. As you say the days are booked…the alarm is set…and there’s something nice about joining the morning commuters. Like working but only for a brief time 🙂
And we mentioned the language-switching briefly on Insta…and no matter how difficult it was I’m sure you didn’t shame yourself the way I did in the Montreal airport earlier this year when I think I said ‘si’ instead of ‘oui’ every time (a compound error! double the shame!) although to be fair it was an eight-hour layover so I was a bit weary.
Wonderful! What an experience,to be a peintresse in Paris,could it be better than that? Enjoy every moment (naps included,and lunches and aperitives and people watching), there will be time to blog (and so,you could re-live it again, win-win!)
Dottoressa
I thought from your first photo you were at the Cité Internationale de l’Université de Paris, where each residence has a particular vernacular style. If you don’t know it, perhaps one to explore on another visit when you’re not so tightly programmed. https://www.ciup.fr/maisons-liste/. I remember eating (predictably) moules frîtes in the Belgian residence.
It must be quite wonderful to be making your own art in a city of art!
I am so glad you are getting to do this, and I agree with Susan L., nurtured *and* self-reliant is so perfect describing the satisfaction of finding a delicious solo meal in a new place.
Off topic but could you recommend a starter selection of art supplies for a beginning sketch journalist? Your ongoing endeavors have sparked a desire in me to attempt my own journal, and I’m at a loss as to where to begin, materials-wise. Do you usually wait to add color to your sketches until you’re home?
Thanks for any suggestions- and enjoy your alone time in one of my favorite cities.
You sure are finding your way! Enjoy all those sweet, sweet combinations.
Thanks for sharing this. I think your Parisienne sketching week sounds incredible.
I so admire your courage to travel alone. Something I haven’t done since I worked in Pharmaceutical sales back in the eighties. How grown up I felt, dining in a city not my own, having wine with dinner on my own. Of course it was only Kingston, Ontario. But a girl has to start somewhere. Ha.