Long before we got there, I’d known about Siena’s particular connection with horses because I’d read about the extraordinary race that’s held in the city’s central piazza twice each summer, the race known as the Palio. In each race (one every July 2nd; another August 16th) ten horses run three circuits on a clay track surprisingly (shockingly?) close to a loud and noisy crowd. The tight curves, the colourful banners, the intensity of this large and normally expansive space being so full, enclosed by impressive, centuries-old architecture . . .
And then the tension of the competition. This isn’t so much about the individual horses and jockeys; rather, it’s associated with the contrade those horses and jockeys are representing, a contrada being, roughly, an urban district with some administrative powers and a high level of social cohesion and pride in belonging. Each of the seventeen contrade has its own clearly defined geographic boundaries; a centuries-old military history in defence of the city; and a heraldry designed around its animal (or other element of the natural or mythical world) icon, set colours, and motto. Read more about these here. (One of the sites I looked at characterized the contrade of Siena as “all feel[ing] very Hunger Games.” The Palio would certainly intensify that feeling!)
We weren’t in Siena for the horses. I’d mainly chosen the city for its Art and Architecture (and, okay, food and wine and people-watching). But as I look back through my many photos, I see that from our first afternoon there, I was noticing equine or equestrian art and artifacts around every corner. In the charming and restful Giardini della Lizza (just behind the weekly market where we bought cheese, bread, fruit, and biscotti: (I posted about this on IG), for example, this playful sculpture by artist Sandro Chia, a principal member of Italy’s Neo-Expressionist movement in the late 1970s and early 1980s.
Cavallo e il suo puledro ( A Horse and her Foal), the sculpture was given to the city in 1994 by the Contrada Sovrana dell’Istrice (the Contrada of the porcupine).
I was obviously charmed — that blue sky and golden fall foliage didn’t hurt! — so you have three photos. Needed, I thought, to catch the play of those graphic geometric carvings across the horses’ skin.
And after that introduction to Siena’s horses, I started to notice them elsewhere.
As stencilled graffiti on walls marked by the trademark colour of the region. . . . a colour drawn from the earth on which the city is built. . .
I found them in Siena’s magnificent Duomo, carved in marble, telling bas-relief stories to the region’s faithful . . . and to all the pilgrims who would have visited as they made their way to Rome along the Via Francigena.
More horses — anatomically correct ones! — in the cathedral’s stunning mosaic floor.
We also noted a equine and equestrian theme in interior design. This restaurant (Le Campane), for example where we ate two very good meals (with such warm and attentive service) and where the gorgeous old beams and whitewashed brick walls were enhanced with striking photographs of — you know it! — more horses. . . . for a warm but minimalist interior that let the ancient architecture shine.
By now, my eye (and my iPhone ;-)) had also been caught by what I realized must be tethering rings for horses . . .
Once you’ve spotted one, you realize they’re all through the narrow lanes within the walls of the old city. And even one, if you’re like me, requires several photographs. . . .
I mean, they’re undeniably photogenic, no?
I soon discovered, as well, that they come in a variety of animal shapes. . .
I’m not sure if this serpentine sculpture was intended for horse-hitching, to be honest, but it looks as if it might do the job as well. . . .
and, of course, I had to get down to photograph it . . . and Pater took one of his candid shots of the photographer photographing. All very meta. . .
The photo also serves to show, though, the piazza where the Palio takes place. Incredibly, a race track gets laid down in clay . . . a roughly circular area with spectators densely packed in the middle and along the exterior of the track. There’s a wonderful video of the event on the Gazzetta di Siena’s YouTube channel — worth watching for the pageantry alone, but you can also speed ahead to about 23 minutes to see the race. So much excitement! And the emotional aftermath within the winning contrada!
I’ll let you sit with that excitement and its emotional aftermath for now, but I’ll leave you with a teaser for next post. Because I have more photos of Siena’s delightful tethering rings for you — so many clever examples of a practical artifact wrought by an artisan with a sense of humour. And I’m also going to share a few ink-and-watercolour sketches from my travel journal. . .
Ad esempio. . .
Have you heard of Siena’s crazy and dramatic horse race? Have some of you been at one of those exciting events? (Were you afraid of getting crushed?!) Have you seen other examples of tethering rings wrought in a similar spirit? Comments always welcome, as you well know by now.
A dopo,
xo,
f
Frances…Of all the duomos I have visited I love Sienna the best, as far as interiors g0 at least. Should I ever have the luck to visit a third time I will certainly look for the horses in the floor. Never had the privilege to see the Palio.
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It’s really an amazing duomo, isn’t it?! And we were there at the wrong time to be able to see all its wonders, so I hope we have a chance to some day. (The Palio I’m just as happy to see on video! )
I would probably avoid the Palio at all cost. I would find the close proximity to horses and riders racing very scary. It could be wonderful to watch from above (a bell tower perhaps?).
I love the tethering rings! I have a thing for hardware. Did a post on door knockers in Venice. I had so many photos that I could have done multiple posts. I look forward to seeing more of your shots. You perfectly captured the whimsy of the horse head in your sketch. I love the long square muzzle.
It must have been fun to discover the horse theme and then look for horses everywhere you went.
The serpent is stunning. Perhaps a place to tie up your dog as you go into the shop for a coffee?
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I’m with you! Even without the racing horses, I’d be uncomfortable in that crowd. Too many people in too confined a space!
And wait ’til you see how many photos I have of tethering rings — Might rival your Venetian door knockers! 😉
I love your eye for detail . It’s easy to appreciate the big things . I once caused a people jam at the entrance to the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona as I was so engrossed in the metal leaves covering the doors . Isn’t that serpent wonderful – & the bricks around you as you crouch .
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If I’d been in that crowd in Barcelona, you know I’d have joined you in admiring the metal leaves — and followed you ’round the interior to see what else caught your eye!
I’ve spent only a day in Sienna,during one of my visits to Florence. Such a beautiful city,full of art,rich history,so many places to go, excellent food…..there I’ve tasted original cantuccini (we have our variation here,and naturally,one can buy it everywhere in a box nowdays).
I’ve read about Palio,long time ago,I’ve seen it on tv,too,so it was amazing to be at magnificent Piazza del Campo. I remember vividly Palazzo Publico and some palazzi signorili.
Palio in real life? No,not really:)
Thank you for your story and beautiful photos,they bring back memories…..
Horses were/ are important,but I don’t remember them now….
Dottoressa
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I remember you exclaiming over a photo I posted last fall of cantuccini and vin santo — the first time I’d ever heard of or tasted this combination. Not the last!
Did you used to ride? I can easily imagine that . . .
Thank you Frances! No,I didn’t. I’ve tried-I’ve liked horses,but didn’t continue…..
I’ve seen the Palio on film but the idea of the heat and the frenzy make me think no. I could watch from a window with a cool drink in my hand. 🙂
I do like horses and horsey art (and will adopt the term horsey art, with your permission). There’s a poignancy in the long relationship between the species. I used to think, when I was younger and rode horses ‘you could kill me but you don’t’ and there was something very powerful and touching in that.
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Yes, a window, a cool drink, that could work . . . but I don’t see myself ever being in Italy during July or August, not having much tolerance for extended periods of heat.
And I’ve thought that also, long ago, the few times I rode horses. Such a huge being that was willing to let me collaborate on our ride together . . .
Many years ago we went to Siena the weekend before the August Palio and were lucky enough to pick the day when all the contrade were out having a full dress rehearsal, complete with drums, though no horses. And the streets were laid out with long tables, getting ready for the celebrations. I found walking through each different area, covered in flags and banners in their colours, absolutely entrancing. We each bought a different silky square for the contrada of our choice and I have them upstairs in my scarf cupboard. I wear the Selva square as a useful scarf – only this week, as a matter of fact – because that was my chosen team. Have you seen the documentary, Palio? It is a wonder and the trailer is on YouTube though I think the film is on Netflix.
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That would have been perfect, I’d say, all the pageantry but not the frenetic crowding of the actual race day. We got a tiny taste in the banners that were being put up for the holiday season (mid-November). I didn’t get any scarves (if I’d seen them, I might have) but brought home a cushion cover embroidered with an Istrice (Porcupine).
I will be sure to see this documentary — thank you! It’s not on Netflix here, but apparently I can stream it on Apple TV.
As a horse lover I was so excited to see this post! the mare and her foal are beautiful. You have such an eye for detail as others have mentioned. I have a found memory of my daughter and I arriving in Rome many years ago. While being driven to out hotel from the airport we passed Borghese Gardens where there were riders on horseback. The moment our luggage was brought to our rooms we waisted no time walking to the park and visiting the stable, jet lag be dammed. Followed by delicious gelato from a sidewalk vendor. We never got to Siena, so perhaps I will have to be content with a You Tube version.
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I thought of you when I posted this, Darby, and I’m so pleased you enjoyed it.
What a great memory of the perfect introduction to Rome. Your comment has prompted me to write myself a note for our next visit to our g’daughter: we must take her to see the horses at the Borghese Gardens. They lived close to the park when they first moved to Italy (she was too young to remember) and I was still a runner then and took great pleasure in running through BG in the early morning. I posted about that back in 2016 and included a photo of horses and riders I passed. Maybe some were the same ones you’d seen. . .
By coincidence the novel I have just finished (A Tuscan Secret by Angela Petch) mentions the Palio in passing, I hadn’t heard of it before. The novel is set in both the present and the period after the first world war and includes an account of the hard lives of the subsistence farmers and the yearly sheep drive to the plains.
It’s rather sad that horses now have little role now in our urban lives. The sculpted mother and foal are beautiful.
I’m sure the Palio is very exciting but like other commenters something I would rather see on a screen than be in the thick of it.
Siena is another of the places I would like to visit again. We spent a few brief hours there with a fractious toddler, so my memories of it are of a small green park with dusty play equipment and locals warning us to watch our son carefully “so the gypsies don’t steal him as he is so beautiful.” That particular afternoon it was tempting to say they could have him!
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I feel sad, as well, that our urban lives now make no room for horses. I remember visiting my Grandma in an industrial English city in ’67, astonished to hear the rag-and-bones man calling from his horse-and-wagon set-up (his work and his transportation both aimed at sustainability!). Around the same time, back at home, one last local dairy was still delivering its milk to customs via horse-drawn wagon, but that soon changed. Our city police maintain a stable and it’s still always a thrill for kids and adults alike to see the police horses and riders patrolling .
Delightful memory of Siena! — thanks for sharing it! I’m sure your son’s been teased a few times about the possibility of his having been “stolen by gypsies.”! 😉