Today: Making sourdough bread (to bake tomorrow); making banana muffins from sourdough starter discard; starting the sleeves of a sweater I’m knitting; possibly creating some order on my (physical, not virtual) desktop because Whoa! Chaos?; and, evidently, putting together a blogpost (featuring my travel wardrobe from my five weeks in France, Italy, and a few hours in Switzerland).
Last Night: A sweet dream in which a former neighbour, a very good man, beloved by many, came to sit and chat with my about his recent death, a bit about his life, about his widow’s grief. Gentle and philosophical and as lovely as I remember him (haven’t seen him since we “left the island” seven years ago). We had many conversations over the years riding a small foot passenger ferry together in all kinds of weather, and there was one morning where together with his wife we de-escalated another neighbour’s suicidal threats. . .
A celebration of his life takes place today, and I won’t be able to attend, so I felt especially touched, privileged even, to have this oneiric chance to say good-bye. I don’t remember ever having such a dream conversation with someone so recently deceased about their death. Have you?
I also lost a cousin last week to ALS. A decade or so younger than I am, and we lived far enough apart, the extended family so large, that I scarcely knew him, but his passing has ripped some fabric, set off some ripples of sadness in our large clan, and I’m feeling some of it. . .
Also last week, I finally managed (part of that two-city island getaway) to see a very good friend whose husband suffered a serious stroke several months ago, a friend who’s now re-reading Joan Didion’s A Year of Magical Thinking because that book so cogently describes the strange limbo she finds herself in. I also fit in a visit to a friend who tripped and hit shoulder and head into a concrete wall back at the beginning of September and is still struggling (and off work) with the effects of concussion.
Both visits were emotional and sometimes difficult, but also oddly warm and affirming and gratifying. Real? Authentic? Part of the stuff of which a friendship is made? Part of what I hope I will have around me when that one mis-placed foot lands me smack in immobility or a diagnosis sends a loved one, or myself, down a one-way path to somewhere we don’t want to be. . .
Beyond my being touched by death, illness, and disability in my own circle, there is, of course, the general context of the ongoing headlines, tough realities of war, genocide, climate change, environmental disasters, political and economic upheavals. Not going to say more about that. . .
Except to say, of (still) last week’s visit that I’m so glad my grandson is proud of his hugging skills. Five, he’s getting a bit too big for me to heft up into a full body, wraps-his-legs around-my waist hug, but those endorphins are well worth a bit of staggering! And the sometimes earnest, sometimes hilarious conversations with the Eight, I’m glad of those as well (and happy to wear the pink wool bracelet she finger-knit for me).
Glad my son and daughter-in-law are such good cooks — so satisfying to watch them collaborate on a complex meal, delicious, healthy, and made with local, seasonal ingredients.
All this temporal context to wind my way back to October/November travels, because now that I’ve been home for a month and December’s well under way, I’m hesitant about posting photos representing my Carry-On Wardrobe. It’s So Six Weeks Ago! But I know by now that many of you appreciate such posts and are curious about packing. I’m nowhere near as organized or efficient as either of “the two Sue’s” — High Heels in the Wilderness and Une Femme. Nonetheless, I have regularly managed 5 to 10 weeks’ travel with only a carry-on baggage allowance, generally presentable and clean throughout, at a minimum.
As well, although I feel a bit awkward posting about clothes and outfits in the context of life’s losses, sadnesses, cruelties, and destruction, I also know that we still need to dress and we need occasional respite from sadness and bad news, and I often find that respite in small daily pleasures, such as putting together an OOTD (Outfit of the Day, in case you didn’t know).
So here’s a sampling of What I Wore during a Five-week trip that spanned temperatures in the high 20s Celsius (low 80s, Farenheit) for most of our first three weeks in Italy to about ten days in the low teens (mid-50sF) in rainy Paris. Those five weeks involved activities requiring particular gear: hiking poles (collapsible and lightweight, luckily, but still. . . ), comfortable clothes, and appropriately technical trail shoes, wool hiking socks, for walking the Via Francigena;
sketching materials and Paris-worthy clothes for the Sketchbook Week (when I’d be seeing the same classmates daily and wanting some variety (above, you can see some of my sketching gear, and some of those clothes had to do their best in Paris as well).
And a coat (and umbrella!!) was mandatory, given that the last two weeks of the trip were in Paris and Turin, late October and early November. In fact, I went back to Rome, with a two-day stopover in Turin on the way, after my sketching week in Paris. But Paul and I had a day together in Paris at the very end of our trip, spreading the two required flights out to make the long flight home less hard on our septuagenarian bodies (there are no direct, non-stop flights from Rome to Vancouver; there are from Paris). And oh, it rained, il pleuvait! comme vache qui pisse! English equivalent It’s raining cats and dogs is considerably more polite. . .
Not sure if you’ve noticed, but I used precious luggage space to bring not one, but two, purses (and also a Baggu waist/fanny pack for my sketching supplies). Verdict’s still out on whether I’d do that again, but as much as I find my little leather backpack (I’m holding it in the photo at the top) roomy yet lightweight, comfortable and convenient for city walking, I sometimes want to carry less and keep it closer. This little cross-body (which can also be worn around the waist) satisfies that want and it’s also slightly less casual if I’m dressing up a bit).
EDITED TO ADD: I also brought a 15-litre daypack to carry a lunch, water, rain pants and light windbreaker/rain jacket on days with threatening clouds, while we were walking, so I did have some carrying capacity beyond what my Rimowa could accommodate.
In case you wonder about my commitment to Carry-On luggage only, I should tell you that we did check our luggage both ways because Paul needed some serious camping gear for an adventure he took on while I was in Paris (shall I tell you more about that later?). And while that could have given me a reason to bring a bigger bag myself, I would then have had to wrangle that bag on and off six trains and a coach bus.
Hefting my practical Rimowa Salsa Air onto the overhead rack of the train from Milan to Zurich (and then the next day, from Zurich to Paris; and on the way home, Paris to Geneva, Geneva to Milan, Milan to Turin, Turin to Rome), I was grateful for its relative lightness and tidy size as well as for my trainer’s help building my strength. Never mind all those stairs I had to haul it up and down in all those stations, or that extra long step from the platform onto the train. Until the day I have a private porter accompanying me, Carry-On ‘R’ Us!
Okay, that’s a wrap! I want to post this before I head out for my evening walk (a new habit I’m trying to build — a short walk after dinner seems to be helping my digestion and leading to better sleep. As does an earlier dinner. . . ). You’ve all been with me most of the day, since I first started writing this morning, and then came back to add a paragraph here, a photo there. And now I’ll send it out and perhaps you’ll keep the connection going with a comment, a question, a wave. . .
chat soon,
f
I love these OOTD posts, especially when they’re tied to a big trip. I find it so satisfying to fit all I need and a few wants into a single carry-on bag. I’ve never had to make it work for that long or for that varied an itinerary, though, so I applaud you! On a recent trip my most used and appreciated pieces were a simple cashmere pull-over sweater and a pretty and soft lounging set for evenings in the hotel room.
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I’m happy to know the OOTD posts are appreciated. And I can imagine the luxury and comfort of that cashmere pull and the lounging set in your room. . . I didn’t make room for anything like that and there wasn’t much time for wearing them, but I did wish for a pair of pyjamas a few times. . .
I think a pair of golden shoes is a wonderful thing. You would never tire of looking down, and so I believe it is time that I had some as well. Re conversing with the dead in our dreams, I occasionally meet up with my parents (mostly my dad, gone 30 years now) and we have jolly chats. Sometimes I say: hang on, I thought you were dead! He normally shrugs it off. In fact, I am pretty sure he was around last night or the night before, come to think of it. It is very comforting, not at all distressing. Our minds are strange indeed.
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Definitely, you need a pair of golden shoes — to wear with your wonderful couture coat!
I envy you the nighttime chat with your parents. Mine are rarely in my dreams, and if we’ve had sustained conversations, I don’t remember them in the morning.
thanks so much for your in-depth post — I LOVE to hear the nuts and bolts of packing and daily outfits. kudos on pulling together a versatile and interesting carry-on wardrobe for your extended trip! and yes, I, for one, would like to hear more about Paul’s adventures.
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Thank you for the enthusiastic feedback! Much appreciated!
Waving : ) Always a delight to hear more about your travels and see various OOTD!
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Ah, there, I see your hand, waving 😉 Glad you enjoyed the post.
You used your wardrobe pieces well. Four or five weeks in autumn can bring so many changes in weather. I’ve got the same EF skirt and I’ve never packed it. Maybe next time.
Health and the loss of it become an issue at this stage of life. I visited a former travelling partner in her retirement residence. She had a serious fall at 85. My brother is still struggling with a Parkinson’s type neurological disorder and My Monsieur is getting forgetful.
Walking habits, attention to our daily activities and reading certainly make our eighth decade richer.
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You’d be surprised at how useful that skirt is for travel. When I’ve brought it before I always thought I had to wear it on travel days rather than scrunch it up, but it’s a champion for coming out of a compression cube good-to-go!
Yes, this decade and the next will take their toll on us; we’re travelling while we can, taking care with daily health and fitness habits, and hoping for the best.
Your post as I read it this morning struck a few chords with me Frances. The dream. I still find comfort in a dream I had a few yeas ago. In it I am visiting my parents, who are deceased. As I walk into their home. once mine as well my mother gently pulls me aside and in a conspiratorial way tells me she has purchased a small farm. So far my father does not know. In the dream she is smiling and happy, in a way I have rarely known her in life. This was a woman who when I joyfully told her my husband and I were expecting our first child her response was concern and disapproval. I prefer the dream mother and admit taking comfort in recalling it, even at this stage in life.
These days I am taking pleasure in just being here. For the last dozen or so years a group of us who had attended college together have come together a few times a year, especially during the holiday season. . First we did lunch, then zoom during covid, but in ever smaller numbers, as illness and mobility issues arose. Now I have learned that one of these women has been moved from the independent living section of her community to assisted living due to Parkinsons, and another has terminal lung cancer and is on home hospice. This last was a shock.
Yet not all is sadness. Tomorrow I hope to meet with an “old flame”. Odds are he will cancel, as has happened before. We may see a movie, or maybe just have lunch. Over the years we have met a number of times, talked about getting together more but it haver happens. I am surprised I even wrote this as I am not telling anyone.
I always enjoy the OOTD posts. I am getting ideas as to how to get more use from my Eileen Fisher skirt that I purchased two years ago. It’s soft knit, dark navy and I like how it drapes. I thought it would be a more interesting alternative to jeans, but they seem to be my go to. Right now I have taken it from my closet and will wear it today , thinking a simple cashmere in a bright color and simple tall black boots, old but reconditioned. Kind of like me.
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Darby, thanks for taking the time to add this rich, lovely comment. What a beautiful vision of your mother you had in that dream, and it must have come from somewhere in your conscious or unconscious/intuitive knowledge of her, no?
And your second paragraph, that first sentence set against what follows — yes, that’s something I try to cultivate and ability to take pleasure in being where I am, so that I will be ready as my options narrow. My father left us his inspiring example in this, during a long seven years of progressive weakness after cancer returned. His last year, he was mostly in bed, shrunken from his former physical self, but he would remark on the antics of the birds outside his window with a huge smile, tell us about what a visiting toddler grandson had said the week before, etc. Often in pain, he insisted that life was beautiful almost to his end.
As for your last two paragraphs — I am so chuffed that you surprised yourself by writing about your meet-up (he would be foolish and rude to cancel; I hope he doesn’t disappoint). And yes! Where that knit navy skirt and enjoy its draping. Cashmere and boots, old but reconditioned, all reads classically beautiful, intriguing (a bit of history, no?). A good sense of self and a sense of humour (your last sentence 😉
I love to see what you packed for your trips. We dress so differently, and you inspire me to get out of my jeans and into dresses. I sooo wish I had listened to travellers who had recently returned from Europe and not to the weather predictions for our Portugal trip. I was very, very hot in Lisbon and Porto. And my planned outfits did not cut it. Plus even though I was open to buy a summer dress if I saw one, even in hot Lisbon they apparently only sell fall clothes in the fall. Ha. Next time, a linen dress is coming with me.
Thanks for the mention, my friend. Much appreciated.
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Honestly, my big incentive to get out of my jeans and into dresses has been my disinclination these days to wear anything constricting at my waist for very long because it interferes with digestion. And I’ve always enjoyed wearing dresses, so they don’t feel as much of a statement as many find them. If anything, they’re just easier to wear, at least to me.
Who would have expected such heat (and persistent!) for so long?! You coped well, but I bet you would have lived in a linen dress if you’d had one — imagine the profit a shop could have made if they’d had one tucked away for next year’s sales. . .
I am so impressed with your travel wardrobe! Compact yet stylish (a tricky combo!)
Another inspiring post. And I would be interested in finding out about Paul’s adventure 🙂
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Thanks! It did its job, that bunch of clothes! 😉
I really love these travel/packing posts, but your clothes must be tiny? Or you have really effective compression cubes? Or….I don’t know, but that’s a lot of individual pieces which you put together so beautifully!
Ceci
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Ha! I will admit to wearing the bulkier garments onto the airplane if possible — Luckily, it was cool enough in Vancouver at the beginning of October that I wore my (light merino) leggings and long-sleeved T under that pleated skirt and the navy cardigan, themselves under that purple linen jacket layered under my (roomy!) raincoat, and I wore the heaviest shoes (the Hokas) for the flight as well . . Notice that the other garments are light (the long down vest scrunches into not much more than a fist). And I did have my day pack and my purse on the plane with just-in-case items to get me through if my case didn’t arrive, so those items didn’t have to go in my checked carry-on.
Another factor, comparing my carry-on to others, is that mine has almost no interior organization — the contents of the two sides are separated by lightweight but strong mesh panels that zip over each half to compress and hold in place. That’s it. No handy pockets for shoes or zipped pouches for whatever — so less weight and more space. The compression cases (by Eagle Creek) I bought at least a decade ago. They’re light nylon and zip on the side. No tricky vaccuuming (;-) required
Frances, as usual after I have read a new post of yours, I feel like I’ve eaten a multi-course banquet! I love all of your travel ensembles. I am getting more and more interested in ideas for packing both lightly and stylishly, as we seem to be making ever more plans to travel. In fact, my husband and I are traveling now. We flew up to Seattle on Friday, to be here for the baby shower that friends made for my son and daughter-in-law. It was a joy to spend time with them, and my daughter ‘s family who came up from Oregon, and to see my siblings who also live here. Tomorrow we travel on to see my husband’s family in Minnesota. I didn’t pack a carry-on for this 10 day trip because I was schlepping both baby and holiday presents. Now my suitcase is not close to full as I continue the journey. Luckily nothing will wrinkle or be hurt by not being tightly wedged!
We have planned a lot of travel for 2024. I might need a skirt like you have…I’ll keep my eye open for one. You’ll be ticked to hear that one of my trips will be to Italy—we signed up for a tandem tour in Tuscany in May. Haven’t been to a Italy since the summer of 1982! Can’t wait!
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How nice to have that time with your family! I have to laugh at the idea of showing you all what I brought with me for four days with family and friends last week. Since we were taking the car, I had no restrictions on what I could bring, and let’s just say I took advantage of the possibilities! (Biggest problem is always that I worry I won’t have enough books or knitting and what if I have time and want my journals to write or sketch in and maybe I’ll bring my own tea and favourite mug, and . . . . . You know!
Oooh, cycling in Tuscany in May?! On tandem bikes? What fun!
First off, love the looks!
I bought a medium Rimowa in black for my 5-week trip to Japan that just wrapped yesterday. This ended my run of carry-on only travel this year, including the two week trip to Italy. Never regretted it. Of course that’s much easier in Europe, and when you don’t buy 30 records. 🙈
I sent out a daily newsletter during the trip, and wondered if you’ve ever considered doing the same? I’d be a keen subscriber.
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Thanks, Thom!
Your travel writing is gorgeous, I hope you know this (and also, it’s so much more than “travel writing” might imply to many). And I hugely admire your commitment to a daily newsletter, but no, I’ve never considered doing the same (I’m flattered to think you’d subscribe at all, never mind keenly! Thank you again!).
I do wonder about changing platforms, about the continued value of blogs, my personal reasonos for persisting, etc. etc., but time management (yes! even in retirement!) and a limited willingness to engage with mechanics and technologies of new platforms means that’s unlikely to happen. . .
Tickled that you would offer the suggestion and encouragement, though. And also, never say never. . . (have thought a bit about doing something along those lines for Supporters if I decide introduce that option on Buy Me a Coffee — but betting on the surviving platforms is a whole ‘nother game. Substack does look intriguing. . .
That’s a wonderfully “curated” wardrobe. Over time your posts about shoes in general have made me pay much more attention to other women’s footwear. Much duller and more ageing in my generation here in the country, and not just for reasons of practicality. Not having a range of shoe shops locally where one can try on is quite a limiting factor. My favourites of your outfits are the linen dungarees and the long linen dress. Yes, the advantage of dresses is the lack of waistband when in the heat and to aid digestion. I realise that the only times I wear dresses are abroad (heat) or at Christmas (digestion) when the central heating is cranked up and there’s a log fire all the time. I love sitting in a café in Bordeaux and watching all the chic summer shift dresses the French women are wearing.
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The flip side of your country shoe situation is that it’s all too easy, here in the city, to feel temptation on an afternoon walk! The limited closet space in our city apartment helps curb that temptation, but there have been lapses . . .
Ah yes, I have enjoyed that Bordeaux fashion parade myself. . .
(I have several wool dresses that are very cosy through the cold, damp months, worn over wool leggings or tights, often under another layer of wool cardigan and pullover.
I have counted and my husband has more pairs of shoes than I do…Interesting!
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If he’s like mine, it might be because he refuses to give away anything that still has use value . . . until he’s ready, then watch out! It will all go and I’m on the alert for what’s leaving the house!
I love OOTD posts especially when they’re travel related. Although it’s still a couple of months away, I got an email today with my travel info…as always when I checked it over I got very excited and of course that lead to thinking about packing (I was on a little road trip so had some thinking time). I always check my bag, even when it’s carry-on size and almost always have one more bag on the way home :). This year, because I’m staying in the same place for so long and going to class for four weeks, and it’s winter for part of the time, I’m sizing up bag-wise plus packing a smaller nylon bag which I will probably fill and check on the way home. That way I can loll around the airports with only my biggish handbag to weigh me down. And that handbag will serve as a school bag when the time comes. Sprezzatura lol!
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Four weeks! So cool, and your Italian will be so fluent!
I did think this time ’round whether I might want to go up to the next size bag — we have a much longer stay later next year, and I doubt the carry-on will work. But I wish the bags didn’t have to weigh so much empty!
I did like the ease of moving around the airport, finding our seat on the plane, etc., with having checked bags — and when I’m travelling on my own, I will sometimes check my bag rather than having to haul it into bathroom stalls, etc. But I don’t love that feeling of watching all the bags getting picked up off the carousel and mine building tension until it finally arrives in the last batch. . . (note that I’m neither modelling nor experiencing sprezzatura in these circumstances! 😉
I love that Eileen Fisher skirt. Seems like just the right mix of comfort, sophistication, and artsiness. And I love seeing all the photos of you in these different situations, because they bring you close to me in my heart.
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Aw, this is such a sweet comment — big hug! xo