In case you’re wondering, my daughter’s family in Rome is now to their home, along with the rest of Italy, asked (ordered) not to go out except if necessary for work, for health reasons, or for groceries. Our visit in May is, of course, now in question, but given the larger context I’m suspending disappointment, frustration, impatience. We will see what happens as this virus progresses through the world, and we hope that it brings out the best of humanity rather than continues to foment fear and panic and selfish hoarding. . .
Meanwhile, I’m finally, sharing the remaining photos from visits a few weeks ago to All’Italiana, that exhibition of Italian Style throughout the 20th Century in Vancouver. (Earlier posts which referred to this exhibition here and here and here and here and most recently here; you can see why I’m relieved to be finishing this series today Finalmente).
I’ll begin this last post with the oldest garments exhibited: The top is a silk blouse bearing the label of Maria Vetalli, Roma. The curator notes that its loose fit and “soft draping fabric” mark “a growing trend for comfort and ease in women’s clothing, and that because it is “unboned,” its silhouette contrasts sharply with “the bodice construction of earlier periods.
The curator’s note doesn’t offer a date for the outfit, but observes that, whereas, “in the 19th century, women’s clothing was often elaborate and bulky. . . . “between 1900 to 1912 skirts became slimmer and more practical.” Sadly, no more information was available about the fabric or maker of the skirt, but I took many photos, fascinated by the wonderfully sculptural details which, I think, would tempt me to try on a sample if it were available in a shop today. There’s something very modern about it, no?
As an erstwhile sewist, I’m mesmerized by these beautifully clean closures, which appear to be hook-and-eye, no zippers yet being available at the time this skirt was made.
This Evening Dress and Bolero-of silk crepe and taffeta–dates from about 1930 when it was made by Federici, Via Condotti 3-4, Roma. The curator’s notes advise that it “is made of intricately pieced bias-cut panels which makes the garment cling to the figure. The bolero jacket has hand painted taffeta flowers and leaves which broaden the shoulder line, making the waist appear smaller. This dress was originally part of Princess Adrian’s wardrobe.”
That shoulder/sleeve detail! I would have loved to touch that confection! But don’t worry — I obeyed the signs. . .
Behind glass was an ever-so-glamourous “Afternoon Dress,” c. 1925-1935 of silk tissue by Mariano Fortuny who in 1909, as the curator’s note advises,”developed a process for finely pleating silk tissue which he then used to produce the ‘Delphos’ dress, a clinging tubular garment made of a single piece of fabric, folded at the top to form a tunic then secured at one side. The style was based on the himation worn by boys, men and women in classical Greece, c 500 BCE. This style of dress was form fitting and elegant and was intended to be worn at home.”
I’m guessing that whoever wore this dress, at home, in the afternoon, probably didn’t own a pair of sweats. She probably didn’t do pyjama days either.
Unfortunately, I didn’t collect as much information as I would have liked, despite having visited the exhibition twice, so that for the rest of my photos, you’ll just have to stroll along with my negligent self and enjoy the garments without knowing more about the context. Mi dispiace. . . .
If you’re tired of strolling around without enough interpretative information, though, we could peek over my friend Alison’s shoulder at her sketch of this festive dress. . . .
So easy to imagine it in motion, isn’t it?!
In case you’re curious, here are the contents of her portable sketching kit. . . .
From Artist/Teacher to Student effort. . . .
I drew this at Il Museo, soliciting Alison’s help to better capture the tilt of the head, and then I approximated the colours of the skirt back at home. . . Poetic licence was taken. . .
Having spent another pleasant hour or two wandering through this exhibition with you, Italy in mind, I’m going to try a FaceTime call with a certain wee Italiana. . .
As always, your comments here are very welcome. . . Perhaps you’d like to tell me which you’d wear (or, at least, like to admire in your closet) of the exhibition garments I’ve shown over this series. Or which you abhor? Or which remind you of something you, or your mother, or great-aunt, or best friend once wore? Anecdotes and one-word comments equally welcome. Your turn . . .
I am feeling optimistic for your trip in May. I'm no professional in health care. Nor do I have any evidence but I think things will resolve in Italy by that time. Let's hope.
These Italian couture outfits are so timeless – especially the bolero jacket and the Fortuny dress. I would love to wear them! Thank you for sharing.
slf
Count me in as someone who would wear the gorgeous copper colored blouse in the first photo, minus the ruffle down the front. The way it folds is very elegant and the color is right up my alley.
Would also wear the black outfit with long skirt and belted top in a heart-beat to a formal event. At home? Not so much! But the way it flows, with the beads around the edge is really lovely. It would appeal to me more if the top was off the shouler, a style which has always appealed to me which also flatters me.
One of the favorite things my mother wore and gave to me as a teen was a very short, black wool jacket with black crystal buttons and the best lining ever-black bacground with white and red clock faces with Roman numerals. It had been part of a skirt suit, but I used only the jacket with a white cotton men's shirt underneath and cuff links. Always wore it with jeans and black boots with pointy toes. So wish I knew where it was-lost in a move, or the moths ate it, or something, I am sure.
Hope you found the little Italian in good spirits on FaceTime. Let's hope you will all be together soon.
A.in London
Thank you so much for this series. It’s been a treat! I especially love the Afternoon Dress, which is so beguiling. However, I don’t think there’s been an afternoon in my life where I could have appropriately worn it, but I can dream. My second favourite is the lush silk blouse and structured wool skirt in the first photo. My least favourite is the black two piece with the numerous buttons down the front – just a bit too severe and Mrs Danvers like for me. Your friends sketches are so lovely – thanks to you and her for sharing them. And I admire the significant progress your drawing shows. Every best wish to your family in Italy and I’m crossing my fingers and toes in the hope that you’ll be able to visit them soon.
Ooh, lovely to gaze at! And as you know, I'm all for comfort and ease in women's clothing – interesting to see the changes being ushered in. On a personal basis the only one I would get near wearing would be the evening dress and bolero. Reminds me a bit of my wedding dress (and yes, it was quite an achievement finding something mid 80s that wasn't a meringue à la Lady Diana). I admire the fabrics and cut of the others but I can feel myself getting uneasy, even panicky, at the prospect of the skirt and blouse in the first photo. I am slim, but would feel constrained by the waist as a non-skirt wearer, and the neckline. The coat is rather lovely in a Virginia Woolf way – wonder if it would work with pencil-slim trousers? Utterly scary are the sharp pointy boobs of Maria's Mrs Danver's outfit!
Like slf I'm optimistic about your Italian trip. Hope your daughter and son in law are bearing up under the weight of non-stop small person entertainment!
That black pleated dress. Though I must say, I rather feel for the lady's maid who had the care and maintenance of it. Oddly enough, I have just bought a long, black pleated dress for summer, though a good deal more casual. What I would really like to know about is the undergarments required for these clothes, so they hang properly and keep everything flowing. There is a fantastic series of videos on youtube that reveals all the secrets of clothing from the past. Worth watching if you have a spare…week. Prior Attire is the name.
Let's all hope for the best!
The black pleated dress…wow!
I miss so much many beautiful italian pieces,not particulary famous brands,even no name brands (then or ever) -all of them immaculate and not eye-watering expensive,from seventies on….
I think I could wear all from your exibition (except pom-pons)
I remember my mother wearing dresses like the festive dress Alison was sketching,made by our seamstress (and,if there was enough material,always a mini version for little me)
We have always saving and remaking a lot of things! A habit that dies slowly (or never)- I've never bought very much,even when I could,but it is so hard to part with old things,I always have an idea (or two) what to make ,and a wonderful seamstress to cooperate. It is interesting,she don't sew new things any more,she makes adjustments and repairs only
Dottoressa
I also love the Fortuny afternoon dress. The time period is a bit off, but it does look like something Odette would have worn in Proust's "In Search of Lost Time."
Love love love the sketches!
I'd love to swan around in the black pleated dress, but my lifestyle doesn't require such a garment. Still, it's fun to dream. I noticed the black blouse with the buttoned front – how pointed the darts/shaping are to highlight the breasts, and I wondered what undergarments would be necessary to wear such a shape.
I had a very interesting conversation with the knowledgeable saleswoman who helped me choose new bras recently. She mentioned how recently shape had changed in North America, although not in Europe, by referencing the television series Friends. Early seasons show a much more structured breast and later ones a softer rounded effect due to the types of bras that were being marketed. I found it fascinating.
I hope that your family trip to Italy can still take place. We're all in a very much wait and see pattern these days, aren't we?
SLF: Thanks for the encouragement and the optimism! and I'm pleased you've enjoyed seeing these photos.
A in London: Isn't the sheen of that copper-coloured silk astonishing after all these years? And oh, those garments that got away — your jacket sounds like a piece you could still be wearing with pleasure.
Maria: I agree — my afternoons could never include such a dress, but fun to imagine. . . .Yet while my figure isn't especially suited to the silk blouse and structured skirt, I could almost imagine wearing it 120 years after its probable first appearance.
Linda B: We have been so spoiled by the introduction of Lycra and its cousins. . . . 😉 But it's so interesting to see other ways that garments could nip in and out around curves, allowing at least a modicum of movement, without relying on stretch. . . Even in the strictness of that black blouse. . . And pleats, of course, are genius. . .
Annie: Prior Attire! What a great name! And yes, the undergarments that must have been required. I remember garter belts all too clearly, even though I only suffered a couple of years before they were no longer necessary (although they play at role at Victoria's Secret 😉
. . . and garter belts are lightweight in terms of constrictions previously endured. Ugh!
Dottoressa: I'm always so impressed and envious when you speak of your seamstress. Much harder to find here, although there does seem to be an upsurge in very small designers/artisans. Several in my 'hood now, so at least the skills are being nurtured and maintained.Such a sensible counter to Fast Fashion.
Taste of France: I can see that!
Lorrie: That is fascinating about the change in bra shape — I do remember a big shift perhaps 25 years ago . . .
And yes, wait and see is what we have to do. I'm trying to do it with grace. Trying . . . . 😉
I hope you are fully recovered from your cold. Let's hope this virus starts to wind down for everyone. I've not heard where it originated from but it certainly is traveling worldwide. As for the outfits they are truly art forms. Nothing I personally would wear. Either to costume-like or formal for me. Just "not me." I'll admire them from afar. Susan
That Fortuny! Le sigh. Or more appropriately "Il sigh."
Hugs on the continuing Sicily uncertainty. I'm supposed to go to Portugal for a few days on the 23rd to take care of some business, but that's up in the air right now (no pun intended), thanks to last night's presidential edict. Weighing risks (Portugal currently has 59 cases) and trying to find out whether I'd be quarantined upon return (current information is sketchy at best). Really frustrating, so I feel your pain!
I'd gladly wear everything but that "afternoon dress." OKay, and maybe the square-dancing outfit at the end. Ha. Reminds me of "The Polka Dancers" from the Don Messer show. But the fluffy sleeves on the little bolero jacket are wonderful. And my favourite is that black two piece with the a-line skirt and the top with all the buttons. That is totally current. I'd wear it with my sneakers. Ha.
Loved many of these for various reasons: the mood, the artistry, the imagination… perhaps first place the leaf-sleeve bolero. My mother and her women friends wore afternoon dresses of silk, taffeta or brocade, sometimes with a bit of beading. That was the dress code when they gathered for a book club or bridge, and what she made certain to change into one for my father's return from work. (She would wear slacks and a blouse by day, but always said, "He doesn't want to see you like THAT!")
These women never abandoned wearing dresses for playing cards but they loosened up by mid-60s on the design, to include knits.
These clothes point out once again how far we have come, and I sometimes think, we look quite dull in our jeans… when I went to the Charles James exhibit and saw the daywear, and then looked at the women museum patrons (including me!), I was struck by the contrast. To a woman, we looked comfortable in our unstructured clothes, but the refined workmanship had vanished like the fragrances of that time.
Replying to Duchess:
You make some interesting observations here on how women used to dress. I still remember that in the 80s, my two nearest neighbors always changed into a dress or an outfit equally formal to await the arrival home from work of their husbands. Also, the tablecloth and candles would dress the dinner table. It was lovely and I admired that even if I didn't meet those standards. And, yes, they also worked at jobs outside the home!
slf
The talk of afternoon dressing up took me back to my childhood, and our mid-60s move from San Diego to Virginia Beach (Navy dad). Coming from the very casual West Coast, it was mind-boggling to this little girl that the young Navy wife next door (she was probably in her 20s?), put on a lovely day dress, a hat, and gloves just to go shopping. Looking back, I realize she was probably the last of her breed.