Blues last week (and again, thank you for the responses, and for the conversation — which continues), Fava Beans on the weekend. . . Seems about time for an outfit post, right? Trying to mix it up a bit here, and since Paul got a few decent photos of me (and I snapped one of him) that’s what you’re getting today. The outfits are Monday’s; the setting is Bordeaux Musée des Beaux Arts where we’d headed to check out an exposition of Goya’s prints. . .
The weather being mid-20s (after the weekend’s too-warm-for-me high of 34), I’m finally wearing my Birkenstocks, making them earn that space they take up in my carry-on. White J-Crew t-shirt, a tissue-weight wool scarf in case of air-conditioning (not so common here, but it happens), and a cotton navy skirt–full, with pockets, I love it!– that I picked up at Uniqlo here.
The photos were staged in front of this engaging installation by Franck Tallon — featuring dramatically enlarged details from paintings owned by the museum, a passageway cut through them so that viewers can insert themselves into the works, which take on a different significance at this scale, outside, framed by the museum buildings and grounds.
Given the Goya exhibition’s focus — his satirical prints in the context of 18/19th century interest in physiognomy (very roughly, the “science” of reading morality and intelligence from facial features)– I should be careful about showing my face here, shouldn’t I?
Although those caricatures make my mugging pale in comparison. . .
Edited after Eleonore’s comment (below): I’ve done a bit of Google-research and the caption seems to be translated most often as something like, Now that’s reading!
Outside again, and not at all empty-headed, my guy walks through the installation. Those red pants he bought in Paris last year have become a summer staple for him. . .
Lunch at Le Glouton — since we hadn’t made a reservation, we felt lucky to get a table on the sidewalk, especially with that view of Pritzker Prize-winner Richard Rogers’ Palais de Justice (Rogers designed the Pompidou Centre in Paris. I like both these buildings very much, but there’s no question they’ve been controversial.)
On the way home, inspired by the Goya exposition, we thought we should check out the statue of the artist, a gift to Bordeaux from its “twin” city of Madrid — did you know that Goya spent his last years in Bordeaux, exiled? And was originally buried here? And that while his corpse was eventually exhumed and repatriated to Spain, his skull was stolen somewhere along the way and has never been recovered?
And on that mysterious note, I shall leave you to prepare for today’s visit to St. Emilion. Pater was more optimistic than I about the weather and bought train tickets in Monday’s sunshine. My Birkentocks will be useless today, however, and we’ll be walking around that pretty town with our umbrellas, and I think my merino pullover will get yet another chance to lord it over all the other garments I packed. . . Watch for the rainyphotos on Instagram 😉
I keep checking the forecasts and they're not great – same as the weather we're having, but it's WINTER here!
Love the Musée des Beaux Arts, and what a rich exhibition that looks to be.
Richard Rogers' firm of Rogers Stirk Harbour and Partners designed the new Macallan Distillery on Speyside where I worked until recently. Its architecture also 'fait polémique', with visitors divided between love and less positive reactions (guarded language!). themacallan.com/en/distillery
Smart choice to ditch the Birkenstocks for St Emilion. Hopefully the rain might mean fewer other visitors.
I beg to differ on the subject of the Goya sketch. The caption seems rather like an affirmation to me. „This is reading indeed!“. The fellow keeps reading, although two people are fussing around, one with his shoes and one with his hair. Of course I may miss a few important details, having only your photograph to go by. And anyway, it would not be the only Goya print open to more than one interpretation, just think of the „sleep of reason“.
Enjoy your last days. Here’s best wishes for better weather.
Art galleries are among my favourite places and I love posts that take me to ones I may never see myself. I think the Goya statue is very fine. And you look lovely in your navy skirt and pink scarf. All the best for the last part of your trip.
Sorry, I’m having trouble with the commenting protocol. Anonymous at 4.29 is me Maria.
Those enormous prints are fascinating. Seeing details that aren't always visible from the distance we often have between us and the art in many galleries.
Hoping your last few days are not entirely rain soaked–it would seem that the weather has likely contributed a tad to your 'blues'. Though you look lovely in your navy blue.
Your outfit looks effortless and so chic…you have inspired me to pack a black skirt when I go to Europe.
Lunch looks amazing too…am off to Butchart Gardens with a friend today…visiting galleries, museums and gardens make home and travels so much more interesting.
Will you share your carry on wardrobe with us when you get home?
Tiffany: Not great at all — BUT, you'll be in Paris!!!
Linda: I could have worn Hunters today or at least my Blundstones. And that will probably be our last visit to St. Emilion 😉
Eleonore: Thanks, I've edited. I can't pretend to have much grasp of the points being made through Goya's social commentary — but I'm intrigued and will read more when I'm back home. I hadn't realized he'd lived and died here (and there was a Spanish film made about Goya in Bordeaux — have you seen it?)
Maria: Thank you! Visiting a good exposition structures a travel day so satisfyingly — conversation for lunch afterwards is guaranteed, or, if solo, some good material for contemplation.
Mary: Isn't it fascinating how those blown-up details take on a different significance? As does having them outside in natural light, so different from the protective environment of a museum/art gallery. . .
Leslie: Thank you! I do like a skirt for variety and comfort — the one I'm wearing in the photo is such a forgiving shape. What a fun day you have planned — enjoy! (as for the carry-on wardrobe sharing — that will depend how organized I am 😉
Love the installation and your outfit, and love you in pink!
I’m really enjoying your travel posts on Instagram. I’m curious where you stayed in Bayonne and Arcachon? The cloisters in Bayonne are quite beautiful. I knew nothing about that area before. It was a spur of the moment decision to stay there.
Ali
You have been making me ache to go back to Bordeaux. So close, too, but just enough too far for a day trip. I have been noticing French women, not young either, wearing shorts, though they were clearly vacationers, which I guess lets one suspend the usual rules about what to wear. I prefer skirts in the heat and ankle-cropped trousers otherwise. Just as comfortable as shorts but much classier.
I wrote you a long comment on the blues post and forgot to shift it to Chrome so it evaporated. Frustrating. Anyway, just to say I appreciate the way you turn a bout of blues into a philosophical reflection on the human condition. Not everybody bounces obliviously through life like eternally chipper SpongeBob.
There is an excellent 1999 film Goya in Bordeaux which you might be able to download – certainly worth seeing. Showing the last, sad years of his life. Elizabeth
Bordeaux is looking more alluring with each of your posts. I'll look for the Goya film. The pink scarf with the black skirt is so pretty. I agree that a skirt or a linen dress are so flattering for women of a certain age.
KC: Thank you!
Ali: Bayonne and Arcachon were both day trips, easily manageable from Bordeaux by train. We did stay o/n in Bayonne a few days ago, but I can't remember the name of the hotel (very reasonable, cute, a bit campy, 1 or 2-star). There's a gorgeous peniche (on the river) BnB I'd love to try sometime — we got a tour of it because our friend's a friend. . .
TofF: Yeah, I don't do shorts except for cycling or the gym or hiking. . . and even then I'm not keen. . . .find skirts much more comfortable.
I saw your comment on my blues post and responded to it — it was lovely and thoughtful. (I can no more do a chipper SpongeBob than I can the shorts 😉
Elizabeth: Thanks! That film showed up when I did some Google searches re Goya — glad to know that it's worth watching, especially since we seem to keep ending up in Bordeaux — and he really ended up there 😉
Madame: And the skirts/linen dresses are much more comfortable as well (than shorts, that is)
All sooooo delicious! And a part of France I've never been to. Thank you for the little (yummy) tour.
The photo of you in the doorway! What a shot! 34C does me in, too. And yes to skirts, pockets a plus. I tried on that Uniqlo one but it is too short on me. So much cooler in heat and pretty, too.
DA: You are very welcome — I think it's a lovely part of France, the whole Pays Basque. . . .
K: Too funny that the skirt is too short on you. Makes me realize just how short I am 😉 Glad you liked it enough to try it on, though — to me that's a big thumbs-up 😉 But sorry it didn't work for you — it's a great skirt. . .